GUIDE REMOVED

15 August, 2021 - 08:48 AM

I tried this in the UK and it seems the challanger banks usually don't refund you at all and du it as a gesture of good will, i.e. internet banks like monzo. (Had an issue with legit being scammed and them refusing to refund me)
Real banks usually will refund you but they will look at all the signs. Credit cards usually will always refund you but I can't get accepted.

(14 August, 2021 - 05:43 AM)TheProfessor Wrote: Show More
[OFFLINE REFUNDING GUIDE]: LEVERAGING UA (UNAUTHORIZED ACTIVITY) CLAIMS TO HAVE THE BANKS PAY YOU | $1K/MO+ EZ :wtfeyes: :thief:

Greetings, I am The Professor and this is my first 'lecture' or 'guide' to the community. I hope all of you enjoy it, as this thread took me multiple days to assemble together, however the method itself is months in the making. Please show some love (+REP +LIKE) once you finish reading or have implemented/benefited yourself

DISCLAIMER
This is purely my intellectual property, and it is not to be reproduced, or reposted - without my consent. The information there in is democratized and open source, but do not copy and paste. This will be a comprehensive guide, and therein, will contain EVERYTHING you need to know about finessing thousands (or even tens of thousands) out of mainstream banks, using UA (Unauthorized Activity) Chargeback Disputes . As such, I will not be holding back on the depth or specificity of this 'lecture', neither will I be withholding or fabricating any information. This guide will be purely experiential, and will be updated on an ongoing basis as IRL (in real life) events unfold that pertain to this method. I myself am trailblazing and R&D'ing (research and developing) this for my own gain, so I am eating my own dog food unlike some other 'gurus'. I would never share a wealth-accumulation strategy or any knowledge period that I didnt know worked without a shadow of a doubt.

I CANT STRESS THIS ENOUGH: If you, or a second-degree connection, benefits from this guide at all (i.e. you win a claim, you share with a friend/partner and then they win a claim), or if you just find it interesting, make sure to +REP and +LIKE. It is much appreciated, and that is how I know I am contributing good value and playing my part as a good Samaritan. If so, I will continue to share very Ultra HQ Content like this

WARNING: I HAVE VERY LOW TOLERANCE FOR LEECHERS. ALL THE PEOPLE IN THE LEECHER GROUP WILL BE BANNED AND PROHIBITED FROM ACCESSING MY PAST OR FUTURE GUIDES

WARNING: THIS METHOD IS HIGHLY ILLEGAL, AND THERE IS INHERENT RISK. BY NO MEANS AM I SUGGESTING THIS IS A SAFE OR SUSTAINABLE WAY TO MAKE MONEY. IT IS MERELY A FAST CASH OPPORTUNITY IF YOU HAVE RELATIVELY LITTLE CAPITAL. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY FALLOUT THAT HAPPENS FROM THE SHARING OF THIS METHOD. EXERCISE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT. ADDITIONALLY, RESULTS SHOWN MAY BE ATYPICAL, AND MAY NOT BE REPEATABLE FOR EVERYONE. THERE ARE NO GUARANTEES OF UNIVERSAL SUCCESS RATES EITHER, AS IT WILL DIFFER BASED ON A NUMBER OF TOO-INEXHAUSTIBLE-TO-LIST CIRCUMSTANCES

DICTIONARY
*Familiarize yourself with these undermentioned terms and their associated laymen's definitions or else you wont understand the guide as much
UA - Unauthorized Activity
PR - Police Report
BOA - Bank of America
CSI - Customer Service Intervention
R&Ding - Research and Developing
2FA - 2 Factor Authentication

CONTEXT
THE BIRTH OF OFFLINE REFUNDING: In the world of refunding, there is a big, prevalent problem that alot of refunders are having and thats that lots of online orders are cancelling, as a result of retailers' algorithms getting more and more sophisticated and burner account bypasses getting harder and harder to pull off.

After suffering this problem first hand, I decided to do something about it. Both by trying to figure out how to brute-force online orders through with better aging/burner tactics (guide on this coming soon), but also by entertaining an entirely new paradigm shift altogether. My hypothesis at the time was this: Online Refunding is not the only way to refund, and that Offline Refunding is possible by leveraging alternative loopholes outside of retail return systems.

I conceived of, and subsequently started R&D'ing, this 'Offline Refunding' framework a couple of months ago, after I went on a trip out of state and was not able to place any online orders while I was on the trip (recently all my online orders have gone through fine, since ive been back in-state and since ive chilled out on frequently changing billing address and since ive used different cards to place orders that dont randomly auto-decline/fraud-block transactions; but at the time, i was having an issue). Once I got back in state, I didnt immediately try placing more online orders, since I had already tried on walmart, target, amazon, nordstrom, bestbuy, newegg, neiman marcus, and bloomingdales, all to no avail even with countless CSI. Einstein's quote is 'doing the same thing over and over again with expectation of different result is insanity', so I internalized this and made it actionable by pivoting strategy and deciding to put online orders on backburner and make offline refunding top tier priority

It was after I came back from this trip, that I took a first-principles approach and went back to the drawing board and I started asking myself deeply, seriously... how do I refund if my online orders keep auto-cancelling? That is when i developed my hypothesis. I knew I wasnt the only one suffering from this either... And I knew there had to be a solution... A solution that didnt depend on the fraud score of your IP, or if you're using a VPN, or if your billing address matches, etc. It took a while to come up with a viable alternative, but i realized offline refunding could be possible too, with the advent of UA Claims. In this case, you are refunding the bank, not the retailer. So I tested the initial proof of concept and it worked... I bought 2 ipads in store using my capital one credit card, 1 at target another at bestbuy, for a total order amount of $1.3K. I scanned the chip on the card, I entered in my PIN, and both transactions were successfully placed. The very next day, I called Capital One to report my wallet lost and to report both transactions. Within a matter of 5 days of reporting, Capital one told me I had successfully won the claim and temporary credit would become permanent (proof below). I was beyond ecstatic, at this 'new' method I had just discovered and I knew that I was correct in my original assertion/hypothesis and that I was charting the right path

After that, I went on a rampage opening up as many bank accounts and debit cards as I possibly could, from PayPal's Cash plus card, to Cashapp's cash card, to chase, to BOA, to bank of the west, to moneylion, and much more, and systematically 'refunding' each bank that I had an account under - a process that is still ongoing. I even went as far as to order debit cards/open bank accounts that are only supposed to be opened in other states (i.e. TDBank) and using a virtual mailbox to be apart of their bank by means of remote mail-forwarding

DONT FEEL BAD ABOUT USING THIS METHOD: Banks are centralized, predatory institutions that make money by investing our money and then giving us a fraction of the interest they earn and lending our own money to ourselves. On top of this, they (not all, but alot) have the audacity to charge monthly service fees, overdraft fees, ATM fees, International Transaction Fees, peer to peer payment fees, and a whole multitude of other fees and upcharges to maximize profit for their shareholders and increase equity/wealth amongst the upper echelons. Dont worry... With trillions of dollars AUM (Assets Under Management), hundreds of billions in revenue/market capitalization, and healthy stock trajectories, these banks will not be the slightest pinched or affected by this method. If something were to happen that might threaten bankruptcy or insolvency, these banks would just be bailed out by the Federal Reserve anyways. Trust me... Even if this method is implemented by thousands of us in full swing even with 100% collective success rate, it would still only be a small spec of a cog in their money making machine. Depending on how you look at it, that can either be depressing or empowering. Its also worth mentioning that the banks dont actually pay for unauthorized transactions, they have insurance that covers this for them

THE OPPORTUNITY
EXERCISE YOUR CONSUMER PRIVILEGES: Although Banks do exercise predatory practices (in my opinion), I am not necessarily debating the morality of the current centralized financial system, the current state of capitalism, or the current state of fiat currency. Neither am I debating the morality or ethics of the method itself. That is not the subject of this topic. Although there are lots of drawbacks to banks, there are some tremendous upsides as well, ones that can even make you money, which is what you're here to find out. Maybe the best well known (legal) way to profit off of banks is capitalizing on cashback offers, credit card points, and checking account opening bonuses.

But there is another way that ive found to be vastly superior to and more lucrative than, the known legal ways, but you wont understand the opportunity until you understand the federal law in place for unauthorized transactions... You see, the FDIC (Federal Deposit Insurance Company) has a federal law (referred to as Regulation E or EFTA, the Electronics Funds Transactions Act) in effect since 1978 that states that banks must refund consumers for fraudulent purchases, or specifically "If your credit, ATM, or debit card is lost or stolen, federal law limits your liability for unauthorized charges" (POV: Consumer). No bank or neo-bank is exempt from Regulation E, even paypal. If you've ever gone through the experience of having someone use your card fraudulently in the past, you are already aware of how this works and the privilege you have as a consumer. You report the transaction unauthorized (either by calling in, or filling out the form self-serve through a website/mobile interface), then they issue you a temporary credit, send you a replacement card/freeze existing card, conduct their investigation, then finalize the credit.

WHAT THIS MEANS/HOW TO BENEFIT: It means the bank is obligated to refund you for unauthorized transactions on your account as per FDIC-compliance, otherwise you can enforce your legal rights through small claims court which is something they do not want because it means bad PR, negative customer churn, and legal costs incurred for them. Furthermore, it means you can make purchases with your card, and get the money back by reporting unauthorized activity, meanwhile keeping whatever you bought or withdrawed with the card. In other words, you convince the bank to think that you are the fraudster who made these unauthorized transactions in question, playing the victim card while avoiding any sort of penalty or punishment and being the sole beneficiary of this entire heist

REQUIREMENTS
-Debit or Credit Card with one of the COMPATIBLE BANKS (this list located below)
-Capital to place order(s)
-Transportation to get to and from in-store locations
-Phone access/Internet access to call/file UA claim
-Face mask to cover your face while in store (protective layer of anonymity)
-Good acting/lying skills to say your wallet was lost/you're shocked someone made big purchase(s) with your card
-Notepad to record the conversation with each rep and prepare a sort of script for what you will say (write everything down for reference)

COMPATIBLE BANKS
*Ordered by recommendation: Top -> Bottom = Best -> Worst

Capital One (temporary credit next day, final credit within 5 days)

Wells Fargo (temporary credit within 3 days, final credit within 2 weeks)

Chase (Same day temporary credit)

Discover (temporary credit within 3 days)

Betterment (temporary credit within 5 days)

Ally Bank (temporary credit within 1 week and a half)

USBank (temporary credit within 2 weeks)

GRAY AREA/NOT SURE YET BANKS
BOA - (ONLY DENIAL SO FAR WAS OUTSIDE OF MY CONTROL) Denied my claim permanently because rep said I knew my PIN by heart and had my card on hand lol, which is the exact opposite of what I said on the phone
Moneylion - In Progress; no temporary credit yet
Discover - In Progress; no temporary credit yet
BBVA - Waiting for card to arrive
Venmo - Waiting for card to arrive
CitiBank - Getting ready to pull UA; Card arrived - aging account right now
TDBank - Waiting for card to arrive

NON COMPATIBLE BANKS
PayPal Cash Plus - Doesnt extend purchase protection to in-store transactions

Bank of the West - Requires PR

Revolut Debit - Requires PR

CashApp Cash Card - Transaction literally wouldnt go through ('Payment couldn't be processed. Please contact card issuer' error at point of sale)

THE METHOD
CHOOSING THE RIGHT BANK: While im figuring out the banks to hit under the GRAY AREA/NOT SURE YET BANKS list, just hit COMPATIBLE BANKS, as those have been proven to work (Proof provided). Obviously stay away from NON COMPATIBLE BANKS, as that is a pretty self-explanatory no-no. Those banks/neo-banks either dont cover purchase protection for in-store transactions, require police reports, or wouldnt even let me use the card in store. These lists will update and evolve as time passes, but they are absolute for now. I highly advise that you start with a bank account you already have on the COMPATIBLE BANKS list, but a noob-friendly bank to refund would be Capital One.

PASSING THE SNIFF TEST/LOADING BALANCE: It goes without saying that to make an 'unauthorized transaction(s)', you need the capital to place the transaction(s). Even though you will end up getting this money back (approximate time frames to receive money back under COMPATIBLE BANKS list), you still need to put up the money for the transaction(s) otherwise there will be no transaction(s) to file disputes on.

The best way that I advise you transfer money to yourself fast and free is through whats called the Zelle Network, and it has a vast bank participant list that includes most mainstream banks on the COMPATIBLE BANKS list, with the exception of Betterment which only has an option for a free 2 - 3 business day transfer within the website/app, no zelle option for them

Here is the List of Zelle Participating Banks: https://www.zellepay.com/get-started

Simply by registering all of your bank accounts under different email accounts, you can enable a sort of what I call 'Zelle Web' where you can create an instant Balance transfer system without having to wait on ACH which is multiple business days and cost $3 - $10 per transfer.

That said, you have to be smart about how you pace deposits into your account to avoid suspicion of 'preparing' or 'knowingly financing' fraudulent transactions. If you are applying this method with a credit card, pacing deposits isn't applicable to you, only for checking accounts/debit cards.

Avoiding or circumventing this suspicion is what I call 'passing the sniff test'. Its simply looking at your bank account and asking can your bank transactions statement undergo a manual scrutiny of someone looking at your account and not seeing any red flags. This requires an objective eye. If you cant approve yourself to pass sniff test, a claim investigation specialist will probably come to similar consensus.

Good news: There is a mitigation, and that is transaction aging. For the days leading up to when I am going to pull a UA claim on a particular bank, I will shift all my transactions I would normally make to that bank for that brief amount of time, so that I can sort of 'bury' the initial deposits under a bunch of legitimate looking transaction history, even if it is all condensed and recent, its not incriminating at all and will help your case. Examples of these 'normal transactions' would be rent payments, cashapp/venmo payments, Coinbase/robinhood purchases, etc. You can even account for adding in a little extra capital into this bank account, so that you can prepare to make legit purchases on top of unauthorized ones. I would advise you get all your deposits into the account at once as early on as possible, so that way it will be easy to bury. If it looks like the only activity you have on your account is filing an unauthorized transaction after adding in a bunch of deposits abruptly, that will raise red flags. The key is to add 'padding' as to not create any obvious anomalies that could reveal your true plan

MAKING THE TRANSACTION(S): Once the money is in the account and a decent amount of transaction history has been created, you are ready to initiate the unauthorized purchases. This is arguably the easiest part. You simply go to the store, and ATM and withdraw/spend money... Do not be concerned about using your PIN as this is fine.

Whatever your plan is, execute it and do not overthink it. Chances are you had something in mind: i.e. Going to Target Electronics Section to buy an iPad Pro in store, going to ATM to withdraw $1000, etc. Remember to wear a face mask (even if you are vaccinated) like I do so that it will be harder to identify you, just as a precaution. If you want to follow in my footsteps, I have been stocking up on iPads, Macbooks, and Apple Watches that I have bought from Target, Walmart, and Bestbuy using this method (Picture below), as my original goal was to offline-refund specifically apple products since that is what I know inside out and was just looking for new supply chain.

Here is a useful tip: Walmart and Target both have 90-Day return policies, while BestBuy and some other stores only have a 15-Day return policy. I would encourage you to only buy in-store RETURNABLE items that have long return windows, as you never know if claim will be successful or not, and sometimes you won't always have the luxury of knowing immediately, which means you might have to end up returning the item(s) you bought later on. If you ended up trying to return the items past the return window, you could get lucky and they could let you return, but better to just order from merchants that allow longer return window, like bestbuy is not the best choice for instance. In the off chance of a failed dispute (not likely if you follow all the steps outlined here), and they wont let you return the item back in the store, you will be forced to gift or resell the item for a depreciated rate compared to what you bought it, basically losing money in the process. This is just my two cents, but you can apply the method however you want to.

Knowing alot about the Banking Industry, I will give you another tip that I would highly recommend you implement to increase your chances to nigh-100%, ESPECIALLY with more rigorous investigation teams like BOA... These are the behavior patterns internal claim investigation specialists look for, like:

A) Urgency to Drain Account Balance - In other words, pretending like you have no knowledge of the balance in the account. What this means is... you should ideally keep making purchases with your card until the balance reaches $0, or atleast try to make lots of purchases to not make it obvious you're trying to hit for specific transaction(s) in particular, or call in to lock the card while the 'fraudster' (secretly you) is trying to make more transactions in case you dont want to drain all your balance to $0 with these unauthorized transactions.

B) Repeated Declines on a Card - Additionally, banks can see declines on a card even after the card is closed off. But apparently this is a big part of the decision process of a UA claim too is if there are any declines on the card following when it was closed. If you think about it, the fraudster has no knowledge of the balance on the account or the fact that the card they 'stole' has been closed off. And realistically if you found a wallet on the street with a card and PIN written inside, and you made a purchase and it worked, would you stop there? NO of course not!. You would keep trying to ring it up. Put yourself in a fraudster's shoes, and this will be a breeze for you to win the claim.

Once again, the behavior must be realistic. These teams have been solving these claims for years/decades and they have established patterns that they look for. Learn/game the patterns and you are good to go.

IF the card declines while you are in the store, this means the bank will try and send you a text message to verify it was you trying to make the transaction. Just leave, there's nothing you can do about that. If you approve/authorize the transaction, you cant file UA on it anymore which defeats the purpose. Trust me, this has only happened to me once. 90% of the time the transaction will go through without a hiccup.

Additionally, if you are like me, and plan on going full-ham on this method and need a way to stay organized and know which stores you've gone to, which purchases you've made, etc - you can use a software called AirTable which is essentially Spreadsheets 2.0. Completely free. You can filter, sort, group, hide, and visualize data however you see fit. It makes life much easier to manage (Pictures below of how it works)
Here is signup link: https://airtable.com/invite/r/ks113k4L

FILING THE CLAIM: Dont sweat this part at all.

Here are some steps to take BEFORE you file the claim, to make it seem like you are in shock/reacting in real-time to the situation:
-Transfer all money out of that bank account immediately
-Freeze card immediately (if you are able to from website/mobile)
Make sure to tell the rep on the phone this, as they will annotate this on your case, which will increase your chances of winning as its a realistic shock reaction

I would file the claim online if you are able to, but sometimes you get an error that doesnt allow you to file the claim over web/mobile (example below), in which case they almost force you to call in, more than likely for voice testimony. I say try online first, because reps can make mistakes and sometimes F up your claim, like what happened with my BOA one

As far as timing of WHEN to file the claim after the unauthorized transaction(s) have been created, I would wait until the transaction(s) no longer say 'pending' as they will just tell you to call back once its no longer pending, from experience. However, the liability of the unauthorized transactions is in part dictated by how fast you report this activity, so if you wait too too long you will end up forfeiting your liability protection or any believable story as to why you took so long to report. To be honest, reporting the day after the transaction is always the safest way to go, and offers the most realistic time frame in which a person would see and react to such an event. Same-day could be considered too fast and waiting multiple days isnt realistic, especially if they are able to determine you were peeking at your bank account (logging in and visibly seeing unauthorized activity) but not taking any action on it. In their eyes, any real customer would be panicking and want to get the issue expedited and resolved quickly. Just play your cards smart and you will be fine.

Here are the universal questions that you will be asked: (The questions are not inherently hard, you just have to have the right rebuttal to each and you'll be golden)
*Different questions will be asked from bank to bank
1) What can I help you with today?
2) Whats the transaction amount and date?
3) How do you think this happened? Is your card lost or stolen? Or in your possession?
4) What other items were lost with your wallet?
5) When and Where did you last have your wallet last? When did you realize your wallet was missing?
6) Do you have any idea of who might've made the purchases? Have you ever let anyone use your card/PIN?
7) Have you filed police report?
8) Can you confirm the billing address on file to send the new card/PIN to?
9) Is there anything else I can do for you?

And here is your answer for each:
1) Need to Report Unauthorized Activity
->This is the time to mention that you already transferred all money out of your bank account and froze card manually, so that there is no way fraudster can make any more transactions again
2) $XX.XX on [August] Z, $YY.YY on [August] X *Make sure if you created multiple unauthorized transactions that you report them all*
3) *Dont act like you know everything, as knowing too much or making too many assumptions is how you sound suspicious. Just lightly mention that your wallet is lost (this is the time to explain that you keep your card, and PIN on a little piece of paper next to your card, located in your wallet), and thats how you think the unauthorized transactions happened*
4) (State ID - I wouldnt say drivers license; i.e. did you file police report for identity theft for your missing drivers license in your wallet ), maybe you can mention another debit card with another bank, and some cash you had in there, but thats about it (the more details you reveal, the harder the lie will be to maintain and the more traps you could potentially create for yourself; They will look for an excuse to use anything against you)
5)
Time Wallet was Lost: *The answer to this question will all depend on your transaction history and if it recently involved any in store transactions involving your physical card recently* For instance, if your last physical card transaction was 5 days ago, you can say you lost your wallet anytime between 5 days ago and today, but just keep in mind I would reply a recent time the wallet was lost so that they dont question why it took you so long to freeze your card. Remember they will try to use anything and everything against you, even your reaction time after your wallet was lost. In general, keep your answer between 1 - 3 days ago from when the unauthorized transaction happened is when you must've lost your wallet.
Location: You can come up with fake location where you might've left it, as long as its near where you generally make purchases/around where the fraudster started making purchases. You can say must've slipped out of my pocket while i was in Walgreens or ralphs or wherever
Time of Lost Wallet Realization: I would just say that you generally keep up with your stuff, but you didnt even realize until after you saw the unauthorized transactions and started looking around for an explanation of why it happened that you realized, as you've been pretty busy lately.
6) No clue whatsoever. Never added any authorized users or allowed anyone to use my pin/card, not even family.
7) No I have not. I just called you guys first. Do I need to file police report? (The answer is you do not need to, and dont stretch this too long; try to move on from this topic asap)
8) *Tell them your address* and go through text verification 2FA process with them if necessary
9) If the rep never brought up the replacement card/replacement PIN this would be the time to get a new one of each to get mailed out to you. Trust me, little things like this show you are proactive about the situation which imitates realistic behavior of a consumer victimized by a situation like this in real life. It will strengthen your case.

Reminder Tips:
->Show visible signs of stress and shock on the call. Sigh, breathe hard, stutter even... Anything to make yourself sound more believable. Make sure to say other things like 'I cant believe this is happening' or 'I dont have this money to lose' etc. The banker on the phone will sympathize with you
->Be vigilant when you are on the call. Manage your stories well. Make sure nothing you are saying is contradictory. Make sure everything that you are saying is congruent and passes common sense test. Be careful about what you say was in your wallet when it was lost - they will try to use this against you. Also make sure everything surrounding the story of the wallet, like the time you said you lost it, the location you said you lost it, etc all makes sense as a whole because they will try to poke holes wherever they can
->Either record your phone calls with these banks to keep track easy of what you said exactly in case you need it for reference, or write on note pad what you said during the conversation (the latter is the easiest, low-hanging fruit solution)

MASTERING THE LEGALITY: Although I mentioned earlier in the guide a warning that this method is highly illegal and has risk associated, that was just a general statement. The truth is the method itself is not risky, just from an objective legal standpoint it is. However, if you play your cards right as outlined in this guide and DO NOT incriminate yourself, there is nothing to fear. The biggest misconception is that these banks are omnipotent entities that know everything, and can spot a lie. While generally they do collect lots of data and have lots of power over the financial system and have dealt with lots of disputes over the years, they do not know everything on a microscopic level, meaning there is still room for things to pass by them. The sheer bureaucracy of these banks doesn't afford them the luxury to dig into things too deeply on a granular case by case basis, as they have large amounts of disputes to get to. The truth is they have certain indicators that they look for, and thats it. They dont check cameras or anything of that nature, as they do not authority to do this without police report or warrant. That said, they are really relying on what they see on their end, what the customer says/does, and the behavior of the fraudster, to reach their decision.

Recap:
->Dont ever file (and definitely do not fake a) police report or merchant contact; leave that to the bank to resolve. IF they bring this up, just say you didnt think of that and that you will probably do it later
->Signing a Fraud Affidavit is fine; You wont get in trouble as long as you dont file police report, as the bank isnt going to check cameras. Thats why understanding which banks require police report matters greatly, and ive already narrowed down this list under COMPATIBLE BANKS. Some banks like USBank will require you to mail them a fraud affidavit/dispute form, while others such as Moneylion will require you to email them a fraud affidavit/dispute form. Make sure to send that in as soon as possible, as your dispute will simply be in limbo without doing it. It is just part of their due process/protocol. Make sure the information you put on the dispute form exactly aligns with what you said on your initial phone call/online claim.

IF CLAIM FAILS: If the claim fails, that is unfortunate but its not the end of the world . The beauty of making purchases of things that you can easily return/not lose much money on, is in the event of a failed dispute you dont really suffer any permanent damage. That said, you have nothing to lose really, as you can always return the items bought within 90 days if you buy from target or walmart (30 days for electronics) - assuming you still have proof of purchase/receipt. Usually bank claims are resolved within 15 - 45 calendar days so thats approximately the window of time you need anyways, to know if you won or lost the claim. As for the fake unauthorized activity ATM withdrawals, the only cost you incur is the miniscule ATM Fee.

If you lose the claim though, all hope is not lost... Sometimes there are BS errors with the claim that you can dispute, and in turn will allow you to get the claim re-opened. This is when you will need to act like a Karen to get the issue escalated, and really press the bank to give you your money back and to be held accountable. You have the right to request the documents that were used by the investigation team in coming to their conclusion, I would request this and re-appeal providing a rebuttal for the reason(s) they state.

As far as if you are going to get in trouble if the claim is closed, that is not how it works so the answer is no you will not. Once again, these banks do not have access to retailer cameras, so they pretty much make their decision based on what their internal data shows them (i.e. bank transactions, fraudster behavior, your behavior, etc) in addition to occasional third party cooperation (i.e. police, retailers). So ultimately, they will not know that you were the one that made the unauthorized transactions, although they will deny the claim and have a hunch. The point of this entire method, and the reason this guide is relatively lengthy is because of all the variables that go into CONVINCING them that you are a legit customer who has truly been victimized, and showing them all the signals/saying the right things so that they can see/hear what they need to see/hear in order to feel compelled to end the claim in your favor.

THE MASTERPLAN (SCALABILITY)
The con to offline refunding, is its not as scalable as online orders, since you can only open so many bank accounts under your own name/SSN. I am going to experiment soon with the possibility of scaling UA claims under a system of Fullz/Fake Documents/Drop Houses to create infinite bank accounts and scale up infinite UA claims. Currently, I am just collecting data on which banks accept/close UA claims the easiest. So far those are capital one and wells fargo. I will make sure to extend this thread once I have the results on this experiment.

--------------
If you've gotten this far, it means you are on your way to becoming an Offline Refunding Pro     . If you liked the guide, +REP and +LIKE so that I will know to drop more. It would be greatly appreciated. Its been my pleasure lecturing everyone via this thread. Have an awesome day, and consider applying the method because it works

Laybuy Credit accounts ✓
Iceland bonus card accounts ✓
Cineworld free unlimited ✓ cinema tickets (yearly) ✓
Disney+ ✓
Polymer notes £20 denomination (real item so we can use a middleman) ✓
Steam accounts ✓
Spotify accounts ✓
Uplay accounts✓

Payment methods:
Crypto ✓
Cash app ✓
PayPal ✓
Bank transfer ✓

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